The most critically undervalued maneuver in all of surfing.
With so many intricacies, subtleties & reactionary adjustments required to perform a flawless and optimal take-off, it’s little wonder so many surfers balk at the opportunity to surf treacherous, consequential waves.
The term ‘pop-up’ diminishes the true skill required to place oneself in a situation where total trust in your abilities and self-belief become paramount to success, and all that remains for a surfer to rely upon in the moment. This term was developed by the surf-school industry in an attempt to explain to learners how to ‘pop’ to their feet, on a big board in white water, or a flat wave. It has no place in surfing other than to teach poor technique patterns which unfortunately can stay with people for their entire surfing lives.
In Wave Ki we teach the Fundamentals of surfing, however these fundamentals should never be mistaken for ‘basics’, ‘how-to’s’ or ‘quick tips’. We go into explicit detail on the take-off and I encourage every member to routinely practice this form on a daily basis.
It’s through practice that one becomes more aware, more confident and begins to instinctively develop the critical techniques that can open up an entirely new dimension when it comes to the waves you ride, how you position yourself in the line-up and it’s ultimately what dictates your comfort level, and the confidence which is required to place it all on-the-line when it counts most ...in heavy waves.
Interestingly, optimising the take-off technique is arguably most advantageous to a surfer when surfing small, marginal or quick waves. This is the specific area where most surfers struggle to execute efficiently, which inevitably results in loss of speed, opportunity and timing.
…for this very reason, it is my belief that the take-off is by far and away the most critically undervalued maneuver in all of surfing.
Photo Credits:
Brad Gerlach – Chopes @timmckenna
Munga Barry – Sunset Beach @artbrewer
Kelly Slater – Pipe @xgames
Nathan Florence – Chopes @brendononeal
Dane Gudauskas – Chopes @timmckenna
Shane Dorian – Tahiti @patstacyfilm
Andy Irons – Sunset @grantellis1
exactly